How-To

To make a crazy quilt like the ones to the left, first I cut out muslin squares of the size I want.  Rotary cutters  (watch your fingers, don't ask how I know) are great.  Then, I gather my fabric.  I have seven or eight 3 drawer storage bins from Walmart and three or four plastic tubs. One big tub for big pieces of fabric, and 3 little. (About $15 for the 3 drawer storage.)  I have them all in the closet of my sewing room. They are stuffed full!  Anyway, I sort through the fabric for my color scheme.  I have a drawer for lace and dodads and trims already, and I make another for the project quilt.  Once that is done then I settle down in the floor with my pins.  All of my quilts are held together primarily by the embroidery, not all but most.  I cut and pin on my muslin (backing like this is a good use of lightweight stained or otherwise useless fabric, since it doesn't show--but made sure it is all the same weight or it will hang funny). Someone who makes alot of clothes probably has a mindset about the grain.  For a crazy quilt I don't pay attention to that because the pieces are so small.

Then, I pull out my dictionary of embroidery stitches and get to work. You'll get faster as you work the stitches regularly. I like to work my embroidery while I watch movies.  I have been know to do it at work (lunch, of course!) Or after little one is in bed.  But I know not to set out all my stuff on the couch unless I know I won't be disturbed for awhile.

I have a pretty box (Hobby Lobby) only for my floss and buttons and trim.  All in bags by color, otherwise it is hopelessly tangled and I don't know what I have.  I have another bag for the buttons.  I bought some antique buttons on ebay a few times (I like metal and unusual, horn is good to) and have alot, but I only put a small selection in my permanent box.  Buttons are excellent for covering up whatever needs to be covered up!  Any lace and trim that I have aquired that I will never use goes in the craft box for my little one.  Don't buy the trims at a fabric store unless you just HAVE TO HAVE IT.  Get it at an estate sale or a garage sale full of odds and ends.

When the squares are completed, the pearls sewn and the lace stitched, (the strings of craft pearls are great, and you can buy real pearls for cheap cheap on ebay) the buttons placed, (not too close to the edge, remember you've got a seam) then you should have been thinking about a pattern for the blocks.  You can see the ones I have done--I really like windowpane patten the best--the London quilt is a small example.  That quilt is only about 40x40.  The squares and borders should be stitched with a heavyweight machine needle, about a 16.  Be prepared to break a few.  And keep in mind that all the fabric should be more or less the same weight--say, heavy tapestry and silk don't really go together.  Since mine are show I don't back in cotton, I use a designer or fancy fabric.  Be wary of stuff that stretches!

I tie my quilts.  Measure across in the middle not the edge, measure longway across the middle not the edge.  Write it down so when you buy batting you are not guessing or off by a couple inches.  I buy the bags nearest the size I need.  Low loft.  You don't really need to cut your backing a bit bigger than your front with low loft.  Lay down the backing, the batting, the front. Make sure at ALL COSTS  the backing is not wrinkled.  When you tie, I suggest you start at the middle and work out, rolling the fabric up or over as need be, check every tie on the back to make sure you aren't bunching something up.

To tie I get perle cotton, thread it on a big needle--thick with a big eye, make sure it is sharp-- go down from the front, up again from the back in almost the same place, tie on the front.  Get a color that matches the backing--the backing should blend into the front.  Tie about 2 or 3 inches apart or read your batting package.  Then, knife edge or binding as desired.